Hippos resting in a lake

The chain

Nakuru is one of five

Each lake in the chain is a different thing. Two of them are worth building a route around.

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The Rift Valley lakes, north to south
LakeWhat it isWorth a stop?
NaivashaFreshwater. Hippo, boat trips, Crescent Island walking safari, birdlife.Yes — the natural first night out of Nairobi
ElmenteitaSmall soda lake, pelicans, a few quiet lodgesOptional — a pleasant alternative base to Nakuru
NakuruAlkaline, fenced national park. Rhino, fever trees, Rothschild’s giraffe.Yes — one night
BogoriaHot springs and geysers, strongly alkaline. The reliable flamingo lake.If flamingos or geology matter
BaringoFreshwater, cliffs, superb birdingFor birders, genuinely worth the drive

Naivasha, and why it earns the first night

Under two hours from Nairobi, which makes it the easiest first stop in Kenya. Hippo in numbers, a boat trip that children love, and fish eagles everywhere.

Crescent Island is the draw: a peninsula with plains game and no predators, so you walk among zebra, giraffe and waterbuck on foot. On most Kenya itineraries it is the only time you get out and walk, and it is worth the stop for that alone.

Hell’s Gate

A short drive from Naivasha, and unusual in Kenya: almost no dangerous game, so you may cycle and walk. There are gorges to hike, cliffs where climbers go, and geothermal steam venting from the ground.

With teenagers it is frequently the highlight of a Kenya trip — the one day they are not sitting down.

Bogoria, for the flamingos

North of Nakuru, hot-spring fed and strongly alkaline, which is why it has held its flamingos when Nakuru largely did not. Geysers along the shore, a stark landscape, and far fewer facilities.

It is a proper detour and it is the honest answer to "where are the flamingos now".

Ask which lakes belong on our route

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